The K-Rain ProSeries 150 Valves offer the irrigation professional a wide array of features and benefits. The 2.5 cm valve has a removable metering pin and external bleed screw promoting easy maintenance and manual operation.
Features and Benefits
- Heavy Duty, Corrosion and UV Resistant PVC Construction – Increases the life of the valve.
- External Bleed Screw with Removable Metering Pin – Allows for easy cleaning of the metering pin without disassembling the valve.
- Manual External Bleed Screw – Provides for manual operation in system start up.
- Manual Internal Bleed through Solenoid – Provides for manual operation without discharging water outside the valve.
- Captured Plunger – Allows for the solenoid to be removed without losing the internal plunger.
Manual External Bleed Screw
7101 1″ FEMALE THREAD, NPT VALVE
7101-BSP 1″ FEMALE THREAD, BSP VALVE
7101-J 1″ FEMALE THREAD, NPT JAR TOP VALVE
7101-J-BSP 1″ FEMALE THREAD, BSP JAR TOP VALVE
7101-J-SL 1″ FEMALE SLIP, JAR TOP VALVE
7102 2″ FEMALE THREAD, NPT VALVE
7102-BSP 2″ FEMALE THREAD, BSP VALVE
7115 1 1/2″ FEMALE THREAD, NPT VALVE
7115-BSP 1 1/2″ FEMALE THREAD, BSP VALVE
This guide can be very useful in determining whether a valve has a manufacturing default or simply not working due to incorrect or poor installation. Most valve problems are attributed to dirt getting into the valve during installation.
Below is a list of possible causes for a solenoid valve not to operate:
• Has the valve been installed the right way?
A solenoid valve must be installed the correct way. If installed the wrong way around it will not operate properly.
An arrow indicating the flow direction is clearly marked on the valves body.
• Is the manual switch in the “off” Position?
Near the coil is a small lever which can manually operate the valve if normal 24v power is not available. In “normal” situations where there is power, this switch should remain in the closed position (ie. horizontal). If the manual switch is in the vertical position, the valve will always remain open thus allowing water through the valve if other solenoids are activated.
• Is there an “0” ring under the coil?
Unscrew the coil and ensure that there is an “o” ring seal. Be careful that the plunger doesn’t fall out of the coil when you unscrew it.
• Is there a plunger?
If there is no plunger or it is jammed up the coil, the valve will remain open. Ensure there is a plunger. The plunger should have a spring like movement when pressed with your finger. If not, the plunger is stuck. It can easily be fixed by removing and giving it a good clean with some water until it gets a bit of freeing up and retains the spring like action again. NEVER use a lubricant spray as this will only attract dirt and cause further problems.
• Has the flow shaft been set correctly?
Some solenoid valves have flow control which is basically used to control the flow or volume of water through the valve. If the flow control is screwed down, it is restricting the opening of the diaphragm and therefore limiting the flow of water through the valve. Therefore, ensure that this (if available) is open or set correctly when required.
• Are the internals of the solenoid valve clean?
Sometimes dirt or grit can enter the valve and cause a blockage. It is therefore necessary to clean the valve and ensure that the “port holes” are clear of any foreign material. It is also important to make sure that the internals of the valve are replaced the same way as they were before dismantling.
Other additional information: –
In most cases manufacturing defaults are rare. Generally if a valve can work manually, its internals are o.k. Check that the coil is not burnt out. You can do this by trying out that valve with the coil from a valve that is working.
Alternatively you can remove the coil, and by holding any wire from the coil at the controllers ‘active’ station terminal and placing the other wire from the coil at the ‘common’ terminal, the plunger should pull in when that station number is switched on (the plunger acts like a magnet when the coil receives a current from the controller).
When doing this, it doesn’t matter which wire from the coil is “common” and which one is “active”.
Other possible faults that may cause a valve not to operate (from the controller) include cut or damaged wires, poor wire connections, a blown transformer or a blown fuse (which is generally blown due to a poor wire connection).
Most controller instruction manuals have a “fault finding” guide to further detail possible controller faults.
Contact your supplier should further assistance be required.
7101-DIAPHRAGM – REPLACEMENT DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY FOR 7101 PRO 150 SERIES VALVE
7101-J-DIAPHRAGM – REPLACEMENT DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY FOR 7101-J JAR TOP PRO 150 SERIES VALVE
7102-DIAPHRAGM – REPLACEMENT DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY FOR 7102 2″ PRO 150 SERIES VALVE
7115-DIAPHRAGM – REPLACEMENT DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY FOR 7115 1 1/2″ PRO 150 SERIES VALVE