– Approved Master Valve ATS 5200.030 License No. WM 74565
– Self-cleaning screen with straight flow-through pattern.
– Internal and external bleed in additional to optional flow control.
– Captured Plunger Solenoid
The valve body is constructed of UV and corrosion resistant PVC material. The valve is available in NPT, welded slip and BSP configurations. The valve is manufactured for 3 different applications:
1. To accept 1” Female slip or 1 ¼” slip installation within the same unit.
2. To accept 1” Female thread or 1 ¼” slip installation within the same unit.
3. To accept 1” Female BSP thread or 1 ¼” slip installation within the same unit.
Product Code: VK7001
- Manufactured from heavy duty, corrosion and UV resistant PVC
- Suitable for residential and commercial applications
- Tilt design allows for straight flow path
- Available with flow control
- Flow range 5-130Lpm
- Pressure range 140-1000kpa
- Debris tolerant design. Ideal for use with dirty water applications
Pressure Rating – 20 -150 PSI
Pressure Loss @ 30 GPM – 5 PSI
Flow Range – 0.75 – 35 GPM
Solenoid – 24 VAC 60 Cycle
Inrush Current – .43 Amps
Holding Current – .25 Amps
Height: 4” Width: 3” Length: 5 ¼”
7001 ELECTRIC VALVE, 1′ NPT
7001-BSP ELECTRIC VALVE, 1″ FEMALE INTERNATIONAL THREAD OR 1 1/4″ SLIP
7001-BSP-NFC ELECTRIC VALVE 1″ FEMALE INTERNATIONAL THREAD OR 1 1/4″ SLIP WITHOUT FLOW CONTROL
7001-MXB 1″ MALE X BARB
7001-MXB-NFC 1″ MALE X BARB NO FLOW CONTROL
7001-NFC Electric Valve 1″ Female Thread No Flow Control
7001-SL ELECTRIC VALVE 1″ FEMALE SLIP
7001-SL-NFC ELECTRIC VALVE 1″ FEMALE SLIP OR 1 1/4″ SLIP WITHOUT FLOW CONTROL
This guide can be very useful in determining whether a valve has a manufacturing default or simply not working due to incorrect or poor installation. Most valve problems are attributed to dirt getting into the valve during installation.
Below is a list of possible causes for a solenoid valve not to operate:
• Has the valve been installed the right way?
A solenoid valve must be installed the correct way. If installed the wrong way around it will not operate properly.
An arrow indicating the flow direction is clearly marked on the valves body.
• Is the manual switch in the “off” Position?
Near the coil is a small lever which can manually operate the valve if normal 24v power is not available. In “normal” situations where there is power, this switch should remain in the closed position (ie. horizontal). If the manual switch is in the vertical position, the valve will always remain open thus allowing water through the valve if other solenoids are activated.
• Is there an “0” ring under the coil?
Unscrew the coil and ensure that there is an “o” ring seal. Be careful that the plunger doesn’t fall out of the coil when you unscrew it.
• Is there a plunger?
If there is no plunger or it is jammed up the coil, the valve will remain open. Ensure there is a plunger. The plunger should have a spring like movement when pressed with your finger. If not, the plunger is stuck. It can easily be fixed by removing and giving it a good clean with some water until it gets a bit of freeing up and retains the spring like action again. NEVER use a lubricant spray as this will only attract dirt and cause further problems.
• Has the flow shaft been set correctly?
Some solenoid valves have flow control which is basically used to control the flow or volume of water through the valve. If the flow control is screwed down, it is restricting the opening of the diaphragm and therefore limiting the flow of water through the valve. Therefore, ensure that this (if available) is open or set correctly when required.
• Are the internals of the solenoid valve clean?
Sometimes dirt or grit can enter the valve and cause a blockage. It is therefore necessary to clean the valve and ensure that the “port holes” are clear of any foreign material. It is also important to make sure that the internals of the valve are replaced the same way as they were before dismantling.
Other additional information: –
In most cases manufacturing defaults are rare. Generally if a valve can work manually, its internals are o.k. Check that the coil is not burnt out. You can do this by trying out that valve with the coil from a valve that is working.
Alternatively you can remove the coil, and by holding any wire from the coil at the controllers ‘active’ station terminal and placing the other wire from the coil at the ‘common’ terminal, the plunger should pull in when that station number is switched on (the plunger acts like a magnet when the coil receives a current from the controller).
When doing this, it doesn’t matter which wire from the coil is “common” and which one is “active”.
Other possible faults that may cause a valve not to operate (from the controller) include cut or damaged wires, poor wire connections, a blown transformer or a blown fuse (which is generally blown due to a poor wire connection).
Most controller instruction manuals have a “fault finding” guide to further detail possible controller faults.
Contact your supplier should further assistance be required.
P3008101 PVC VALVE BODY – FEMALE THREAD
P3008102 PVC VALVE BODY – SLIP
P3008113 REPLACEMENT 24 V SOLENOID
P3008119 FLOW CONTROL HANDLE
P3008121 PLASTIC EXTERNAL BLEED SCREW
P55300 VALVE BONNET WITH SCREWS
P55301 DIAPHRAGM/PISTON ASSEMBLY WITH SPRING